So Far So Good Dad!

The floors are just over 50% completed... getting there and looking goood! They're so shiny and smooth compared to our old floors... and no more slivers in my socks - yaye!

Sneak Preview

We have started installing the hardwood floors. Owen seems pleased with the work.

Digging Out Basement = Expensive

Our basement ceiling height is currently 79", but goes down as low as 69" in some areas (under beam/ductwork). We got a quote this morning for lowering our basement floor, which would include lowering the floor by one foot, underpinning the foundation, installing new drains, and increasing our supply line to 3/4". The quote: $37,500. Yikes! As much as I would love to do this, I just don't think we can afford it, and even if we could, I find it hard to justify the ROI for that type of expenditure. So, we are re-thinking that part of the plan for the basement. Should we just go ahead with the existing floor? Should we just get the basement drains replaced and floor re-poured so we are starting with a better surface? Should we consider options for lowering just a part of the basement, or get additional quotes? We might delay the basement project now so that we can think it through, and focus on finishing the first floor and preparing to do the backyard in the spring. We'll see though. Any thoughts? Has anybody done this type of work before? Has anybody re-finished their basement with a 6.5' ceiling and not hated it?

Soundproofing Added to Shared Wall

When we tore out the plaster on the east wall of the sunroom (which seems like eons ago), we realized that our sunroom was separated from our neighbour's sunroom by just a 2x4 wall. In the photo below you can see the plaster poking through the lath on their side of the wall. This is obviously not great for protecting against sound or fire penetration.

I did not think to take "during" photos, so you'll have to just trust me on this one. In order to improve sound control on this wall, we installed sound control insulation between the existing studs. I then drywalled, taped and mudded the wall. Finally, I framed a new 2x4 wall on our side of this drywall.

When we're ready to finish the room, we will install more sound control insulation between these studs, and then install drywall. Who knows how much quieter this room will be, but at a cost of 4" of space, $50 of materials, and 2 hours of time, it was worth a try.

Tearing Out Old Hardwood

We got to work on the first floor hardwood project this weekend, tearing out about 40% of the floor. In addition to tearing out the old hardwood and nails, we re-secured the subfloor to the floor joists with flooring screws, which will hopefully cut down on creaking. The subfloor is in great shape, so it looks like only a few trouble spots will need to be replaced.

The Future of Framing

I read an interesting article tonight on the Fine Homebuilding web site entitled The Future of Framing is Here. It discusses smarter framing practices that use less materials and provide for significant improvements in energy efficiency. Some of the changes proposed in this framing methodology for exterior walls include:

• Using 2x6 studs at 24 inches on center;
• Supporting window/door headers with header hangers instead of jack studs;
• Using a single stud at rough openings with no cripple studs under the ends of window sills (I definitely agree that there can be a lot of waste when framing windows/doors);
• Framing corners with just two studs (and drywall clips); and
• Placing windows and doors on stud layout and lining up joists, studs and rafters (seems obvious, eh?).

I didn't notice until after reading the article that this was written back in 2005, which is interesting because I had not heard of some of these concepts before (e.g. header hangers). I don't know if all of these framing techniques are permissible by code (not even sure of a good place to look up code requirements in Ontario?), but the argument for better energy efficiency is convincing.