- Framed the rough opening to be 1.5" wider than double the width of the door (e.g. 61.5" for a 30" door) and 3.5" taller than the expected height of the door.
- Screwed 2" wide strips of plywood along the middle of the top and right (pocket) side. In a 2x4 framed wall, this should leave 3/4" on each side of the plywood.
- Cut the pocket door track to be 4" less than double the width of the door (e.g. 56" for a 30" door). Installed this pocket track onto the middle of the top piece of plywood.
- Cut three 2" wide strips of plywood that were the equal in length to the width of the door (e.g. 30"). Installed the first piece along the floor using concrete nails since this was in our basement. Installed the remaining two pieces on either side of the top of the left (opening) side with screws.
- Cut ten pieces of 1x4 that were equal in length to the width of the door (e.g. 30"). Installed pieces at the top and bottom of the inside and outside of the right (pocket) side using 2" finish nails.
- Attached the remaining six pieces of 1x4 by attaching them to the plywood with finish nails.
- Cut pieces of pine to a width of 1.25" and a length of 2" less than the height of the rough opening. Installed those pieces with finish nails to the ends of the 1x4's. The idea is that the 1/2" piece of drywall will be installed on top of the 1x4's, and will butt up against these pieces of pine (hence why they are cut to be 1/2" thicker than the 1x4's).
- Cut down the height of the door to the appropriate height by clamping 2x4's to the door to use as a guide for the circular saw.
- Installed the rollers on the pocket door track.
- Installed the pocket door hardware on the top of the door.
- Hung the door and adjusted it to be level.
Saturday, February 12, 2011
Pocket Door Installation
We have finished installing the three pocket doors that we will have in the basement. Here is a brief description of the process used for installing the doors.